Sunday night supper for a lazy Sunday day. Slow cooking for people with nowhere to go and not much to do. We had planned for this Black Bean Soup all weekend long, making a trip to the international market Super King for smoked ham hocks, black beans and loads of yellow onions and garlic. We made space on the countertop for a soup pot and soaked the beans overnight in water.
The triple-digit heat outside didn’t deter us. Inside we moved slowly. The complex’s sixteen air conditioning units provided the afternoon’s soundtrack. As I diced onions and smashed garlic, the low hum continued uninterrupted.
It didn’t take long for the apartment to smell like the Peruvian chicken place down the street. After emptying one container of cumin and dipping into another, the earthy scent of one of the world’s most popular spices overwhelmed our small space. The smell only intensified as the black beans in their dark broth simmered away.
One and a half movies into an epic movie marathon, we sat down to steaming bowls of black bean soup. Bits of red bell pepper floated in a moody mass of beans and the occasional piece of ham poked the surface. The spoonful of creme fraiche to garnish had softened into creamy white rivulets as I took my first bite.
Black Bean Soup
Makes 10 to 12 small portions
1 cup olive oil
3 cups diced yellow onion
8 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
2 pounds black turtle beans, soaked in water overnight
1 meaty ham bone or smoked ham hock (I used two ham hocks for more meat.)
6 quarts water (I’ll do the math for you – that’s 24 cups.)
2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 tablespoon dried oregano
3 bay leaves
1 tablespoon salt
2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
pinch of cayenne pepper
6 tablespoons chopped parsley*
1 medium-size red bell pepper, diced
1/4 cup dry sherry wine (I substituted beef stock here.)
1 tablespoon brown sugar
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 to 2 cups Crème Fraîche or sour cream
1. Heat oil in a LARGE soup pot. Add the onions and garlic and cook over low heat until vegetables are tender, about 10 minutes.
2. Drain the beans and add them, the ham bone or ham hock, and the 6 quarts of water to the pot. Stir in 2 tablespoons of the cumin, the oregano, bay leaves, salt, pepper, cayenne, and 2 tablespoons of the parsley. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and cook, uncovered, until beans are very tender and liquid is reduced by about three quarters. This will take 1 1/2 to 2 hours.
3. Transfer ham bone or hock to a plate and cool slightly. Pull off any remaining meat with your fingers and shred finely. Return meat to the pot.
4. Stir in remaining parsley, red bell pepper, remaining cumin, sherry, brown sugar and lemon juice. Simmer for another 30 minutes, stirring frequently. Taste, correct seasoning and serve very hot, garnished with a dollop of crème fraîche.
*I can’t stand it when I buy fresh herbs, use a practical pinch, and the rest goes to waste. I’ve started substituting dried herbs in place of fresh where possible, especially when it comes to parsley as it’s not my favorite. As a general rule, use one-third the amount of fresh herbs called for as the tried versions have a much more concentrated flavor.
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