“While the best athletes gather to compete, the rest of us gather to eat.”
Perhaps it was while I was watching the Pizza Hut commercial with its clever tagline that I conceived of making a Brazilian feast to accompany the opening ceremony of this year’s Summer Olympics in Brazil. I googled recipes for feijoada, a pork and bean stew that’s arguably the national dish, and pao de queijo, Brazilian cheese bread, but was was soon led astray. I think it happened while referencing another cookbook in search of a recipe with plantains that the idea of chicken kebabs suddenly sounded like a better one.
So to ring in the Olympics, which are taking place in one of the coolest places I have ever been, I decided to make a dinner that was in no way reminiscent of my time in Rio, but rather one that had a distinctly Israeli flair. Go figure.
I immediately put the only copy of Jerusalem by Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi at my local library on hold. (Remember, I am not supposed to buy any more cookbooks!) I loved the Barley Risotto with Marinated Feta that I made from the book a while back and hoped I would find another inspiring side dish to go with the kebabs.
Apparently librarians don’t have time to fetch a book to put on hold when you arrive 20 minutes after placing the hold. Upon hearing this news, I worried someone had snatched my copy and I would have to wait until another one could be sent from a different branch. That or I would finally (but, honestly, once again) succumb to the lure of Amazon’s one-click checkout and overnight shipping.
I hurried over to the exact aisle and shelf where I knew the book to be but before I laid eyes on Jerusalem, Zahav caught my eye. Zahav is an Israeli restaurant in Old City Philadelphia that I have been wanting to go to for years. Among other things, it’s well-known for its brined, smoked and braised-in-pomegranate-molasses lamb shoulder. Apparently this lamb is the perfect balance of sweet and savory and so tender – with just a hint of crispy – that you can eat it with a spoon. And oh would I ever.
Zahav chef Michael Solomonov’s cookbook highlights the food on display in his restaurant with colorful photographs and in-depth descriptions about tehina, borekas, kibbe and other Middle Eastern staples so gentiles who become enamored with the book might get a clue about what they are up to.
I got both books, thinking two would certainly be more helpful than one in finding a side dish to go with the kebabs. I opted for the Israeli salad, made with mango rather than tomatoes, from Zahav and have yet to even crack open Jerusalem.
It was fun making our own pitas while watching the Olympic athletes parade into the stadium with their colorful costumes. I guess it’s just funny how you often end up so far from where you started.
Chicken Kebabs
Makes 8 Kebabs
1 red bell pepper
1 yellow bell pepper
1 poblano pepper
2 – 3 boneless, skinless chicken breasts (about 1 1/2 pounds), cut into bit size pieces
3/4 cup lemon juice (3 or 4 large lemons)
1/3 cup olive oil
1 bunch scallions, white and light green parts, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon kosher salt
fresh ground pepper
Cut bell peppers and poblano pepper into 1-inch chunks and toss in a large nonreactive bowl with chicken, lemon juice, oil, scallions, salt and pepper. Cover and set aside to marinate in the refrigerator for at least an hour or overnight.
30 minutes prior to grill time, set kebab skewers in water to soak. This will prevent the wood from burning on the grill.
Preheat grill to medium-high heat. Thread chunks of chicken and bell peppers onto skewers. Reserve marinade for basting on the grill.
When grill is ready, oil it and place skewers on the grill to cook, turning and basting occasionally, until chicken is nicely browned and cooked through (remember chicken needs to get to 165°F) and the peppers are tender and a bit charred at the edges, about 15 minutes. Discard any leftover marinade.
I served these kebabs with warm pita, hummus that I had topped with a bit of olive oil, marinated mushrooms and a dash of paprika, and a twist on Israeli salad from Zahav chef Michael Solomonov’s cookbook.
Mango, Cucumber and Sumac-Onion Israeli Salad
Serves 2 to 3
1 mango, peeled and diced (about 1 1/2 cups)
2 – 3 Persian cucumbers (about 1 1/2 cups)
1/4 cup Sumac Onions (recipe follows)
2 tablespoons mint, freshly chopped
1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
Combine all ingredients save mint in a bowl and toss to combine. Chop mint just before serving as mint browns quicker than other herbs when exposed to air.
Sumac Onions
1 red onion, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
1 teaspoon ground sumac
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
Combine all ingredients in a bowl. The longer the onions sit, the “juicier” they seem to become. This will make much more than what is required for the Israeli salad above, but I think these would be great toppings for anything from sandwiches to scrambled eggs.
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