Our tour of the Colosseum and the Palatine Hill took an unexpected turn when Marcello, our guide, tried to find the wild asparagus he had seen on his last visit. Without a stalk, he figured the one of the groundskeepers had likely plucked it at the peak of ripeness to enjoy it with dinner.

Marcello then went on to offer us a taste of the wild arugula that was growing between stones along a dirt path. We were skirting what remained of the Flavian Palace, heading towards a remarkable view of the Circus Maximus. The flavor is much more intense than the arugula you’re getting at the supermarket, but recognizable nonetheless. 

I had never seen a fresh bay leaf until Marcello pointed out a whole tree of them. And pine nuts are harvested from the same stone pines that offered the occasional bit of shade on our walk. It turns out Rome is a forager’s paradise and one only need know where to look to find some of the ingredients that characterize Roman cooking.

Fennel is grown in and around Lazio, the central region of Italy where Rome is found. Radicchio comes from the north of Italy and pears have been growing across Europe for thousands of years. The fruit was cultivated by the Romans, appearing in Pliny’s Natural History. It made an appearance in Homer’s The Odyssey as well.

This salad, adapted from Katie Parla and Kristina Gill’s Tasting Rome, has become a go-to since returning from the Eternal City with that cookbook in hand.

Fennel, Radicchio and Pear Salad
Serves 4 to 6

1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon plus 1 1/2 teaspoon lemon juice
1 head radicchio, quartered, cored, and sliced into thin strips
1 fennel bulb, similarly quartered, cored and sliced into thin strips, reserve the fronds
1 pear, also quartered, cored, and sliced into thin strips
Sea salt and fresh ground black pepper
Pecorino, for shaving atop the salad

Combine olive oil, balsamic vinegar, and lemon juice in a bowl. Add radicchio, fennel and finally the pear. Toss to combine and season with salt and pepper. Plate the salad and garnish with shaved pecorino and fennel fronds.