One of the best food finds of our trip was uncovered during a beach walk north along Grand Cayman’s Seven Mile Beach. Just before you hit Calico Jack’s, with its bright green and dark blue corona umbrella topped picnic tables, there’s a stretch of sand uninterrupted by hotels and condos. It’s a public beach with sun tents, playground equipment and a jerk chicken trailer.

We were lured there by the smell of spice wafting down the beach and greeted by a smiling Jamaican woman. She was standing inside the trailer tending to beans and rice and affixing tiny squares of tinfoil to the spouts of her sauces to keep the flies at bay. In a meal that came after breakfast, before lunch and alongside a fruity cocktail, we limited ourselves to the chicken and what a revelation it was.

The main feature was cooking on a black barbecue – picture a smaller version of what you see many pit masters using to smoke their pork – and when our host opened the lid all that distinguished the meat from the black of the coals were the cracks in jerk rub that revealed veins of juicy flesh-colored tones. With a great meat cleaver, she hacked up a chicken quarter and laid it on a napkin for us.

Slathered with sauces, both hot and mild, or enjoyed without, this was some of the best jerk chicken I have ever had.

The jerk chicken was the beginning of a consistent thread of Jamaican food found around the island. From seafood rundown at lunch to festival and saltfish fritters to patties, much of the cuisine in Cayman has been influenced by Jamaicans who have immigrated to the island.

The Cayman Islands were once controlled by Jamaica, both in concert with Britain beginning in 1670 and without, beginning in 1863 when the islands were declared a dependency of its island neighbor. The official bonds were broken when Jamaica was granted independence in 1962 but the cultural bonds still remain.

Jamaicans in Cayman have long been a great percentage of the population in Cayman and today make up about a fourth of the island’s population. In many ways, and for me – most notably – through food, have the Jamaicans made there mark on the Cayman Islands.

This jerk seasoning was adapted from the NY Times recipe.

Jerk Chicken
Makes just shy of 1/2 cup seasoning

Chicken thighs

1 tablespoon plus 1/4 teaspoon allspice berries
1 1/2 teaspoons black peppercorns
1 tablespoon paprika
1 tablespoon sugar
2 teaspoons dried thyme
2 teaspoons garlic powder
2 teaspoons ground ginger
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon cayenne
¼ teaspoon nutmeg

Mango salsa, for serving (recipe follows)

Grind allspice berries and peppercorns in a mortal and pestle under finely ground. Mix in remaining ingredients and sprinkle thoroughly over both sides of chicken thighs. This seasoning will make enough for at least 8 thighs and probably as many as 12. All depends on how many thighs (or breasts) you want to cook.

I recommend making these on the grill otherwise they will smoke up your house and the jerk smell will linger. On the grill, I cook chicken thighs over medium-heat heat for about 3-4 minutes per side.

If you have any leftover seasoning, be sure to wrap it up or put it in an airtight container and store in the fridge.

Mango Salsa
Makes about 1 1/2 cups

1 ripe mango, diced1/2 cup diced pineapple
1/2 red bell pepper, diced
1/4 cup diced red onion
1-2 scallions, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons lime juice
2 tablespoons pineapple juice

Combine all ingredients and serve with jerk chicken.